Day 7 Ivan Dolac

This tiny village doesn’t have much. We went out looking for something to eat in the morning and found a woman selling some bread and pastry from a window in her house. Further up the road we found a mini mart (really mini) with 2 kinds of cheese and packaged ham. It sufficed. After breakfast we hit the “beach”. No sand and lots of rocks both big and small. Actually, there are several small, secluded beaches within a short walking distance, one of them being a nudist beach. But you don’t really need a nusist beach to swim naked. This morning, we saw from our balcony three middle-aged persons emerging naked from the sea. Swimming in the Adriatic is wonderful, naked or otherwise. Janka and Andrzej invited us for a salad lunch and afterwards we embarked on a short sightseeing trip to two local villages located on this side of the tunnel, which is almost synonymous with “cut off from civilization.” One of them was Jagodna (about 4 houses) with a spectacular beach and a campground, and the other is Svata Nedielja (Holy Sunday). Its new part consists of a few houses by a very deep (about 50 m) harbor where we saw grapes being dried for raisins, and the old part way up the St. Nicholas Mountain (the highest in Hvar) has picturesque stone houses, an old church and a big modern winery. High above the village is an ancient cave with a 16th century chapel inside. When we got back to Ivan Dolac, our landlord invited the four of us for wine (another liter) and showed us his picture with Tito. In the evening, Our landlord grilled fish for us for dinner. It’s an elaborate ritual that involves rubbing the grill with raw onion, then with olive oil infused with garlic, which is also poured on the fish, and rosemary is inserted inside the fish. Then the fish is grilled on all sides until the skin is crisp. Delicious. The fish he made was brancin and orada. We had this dinner on the terrace of his house overlooking the sea. There was also a group of 2 couples from Brno who were grilling their own fishes. After dinner, we started talking and they started pouring Moravian wine and we just sat there drinking and discussing wine and life till 11 pm.